Shetland Islands

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The Shetland Isles

Shetland

Flag of Shetland
Map of Shetland

Admin HQ Lerwick

Government Body: Shetland Islands Council

MP Alistair Carmichael

MSP Tavish Scott

Total Area: 1,468 km2 (567 sq mi)

Area rank Ranked 12th

Population (2010 est.)

Total 23,000

Rank Ranked 31st

Density 15/km2 (40/sq mi)

ONS code 00RD

ISO 3166 code GB-ZET

Website www.shetland.gov.uk


Shetland (Scottish Gaelic: Sealtainn), also called the Shetland Islands, is a subarctic archipelago of Scotland that lies north-east of mainland Britain.

The islands' motto, which appears on the Council's coat of arms, is 'Með lögum skal land byggja'. This Icelandic phrase is taken from Njáls saga and means "By law shall the land be built up". <ref> "Shetland Islands Council". Heraldry of the World. Retrieved 2 April 2011</ref>The islands lie some 80 km (50 mi) to the northeast of Orkney and 280 km (170 mi) southeast of the Faroe Islands and form part of the division between the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the North Sea to the east. The total area is 1,468 km2 (567 sq mi) and the population totalled 23,167 in 2011. <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) p. 4</ref>

Comprising the Shetland constituency of the Scottish Parliament, Shetland is also one of the 32 council areas of Scotland; the islands' administrative centre and only burgh is Lerwick. The largest island, known simply as "Mainland", has an area of 967 km2 (373 sq mi), making it the third-largest Scottish island and the fifth-largest of the British Isles. There are an additional 15 inhabited islands. The archipelago has an oceanic climate, a complex geology, a rugged coastline and many low, rolling hills.

Humans have lived there since the Mesolithic period, and the earliest written references to the islands date back to Roman times. The early historic period was dominated by Scandinavian influences, especially Norway, and the islands did not become part of Scotland until the 15th century. When Shetland became part of the Kingdom of Great Britain in 1707, trade with northern Europe decreased. Fishing has continued to be an important aspect of the economy up to the present day. The discovery of North Sea oil in the 1970s significantly boosted Shetland incomes, employment and public sector revenues.

The local way of life reflects the joint Norse and Scottish heritage including the Up Helly Aa fire festival, and a strong musical tradition, especially the traditional fiddle style. The islands have produced a variety of writers of prose and poetry, many of whom use the local Shetlandic dialect. There are numerous areas set aside to protect the local fauna and flora, including a number of important seabird nesting sites. The Shetland Pony and Shetland Sheepdog are two well-known Shetland animal breeds.

Etymology

In AD 43 and 77 the Roman authors Pomponius Mela and Pliny the Elder referred to the seven islands they call Haemodae and Acmodae respectively, both of which are assumed to be Shetland. Another possible early written reference to the islands is Tacitus' report in AD 98, after describing the discovery and conquest of Orkney, that the Roman fleet had seen "Thule, too". In early Irish literature, Shetland is referred to as Inse Catt—"the Isles of Cats", which may have been the pre-Norse inhabitants' name for the islands. The Cat tribe also occupied parts of the northern Scottish mainland and their name can be found in Caithness, and in the Gaelic name for Sutherland (Cataibh, meaning "among the Cats").<ref> Watson, William J. (1994) The Celtic Place-Names of Scotland. Edinburgh. Birlinn. ISBN 1-84158-323-5. First published 1926. 7</ref>

The oldest version of the modern name Shetland is Hetlandensis, the Latinised adjectival form of the Old Norse name recorded in a letter from Harald count of Shetland in 1190, becoming Hetland in 1431 after various intermediate transformations. <ref>DIPLOMATARIUM NORVEGICUM. p.2 [1190] Dilectissimis amicis suis et hominibus Haraldus Orcardensis, Hetlandensis et Catanesie comes salutem. archive.org</ref>

It is possible that the Pictish "cat" sound forms part of this Norse name. It then became Hjaltland in the 16th century.<ref>Gammeltoft, Peder (2010) "Shetland and Orkney Island-Names – A Dynamic Group". Northern Lights, Northern Words. Selected Papers from the FRLSU Conference, Kirkwall 2009, edited by Robert McColl Millar, 21, 22</ref>

As Norn was gradually replaced by Scots, Hjaltland became Ȝetland. The initial letter is the Middle Scots letter, "yogh", the pronunciation of which is almost identical to the original Norn sound, "/hj/". When the use of the letter yogh was discontinued, it was often replaced by the similar-looking letter z, hence Zetland, the misspelt form used to describe the pre-1975 county council. <ref>Jones, Charles (ed.) (1997) The Edinburgh history of the Scots language. Edinburgh University Press, 210</ref>

Most of the individual islands have Norse names, although the derivations of some are obscure and may represent pre-Norse, possibly Pictish or even pre-Celtic names or elements.<ref>Gammeltoft, Peder (2010) "Shetland and Orkney Island-Names – A Dynamic Group". Northern Lights, Northern Words. Selected Papers from the FRLSU Conference, Kirkwall 2009, edited by Robert McColl Millar, 21, 22</ref>

Geography and Geology

Shetland is around 170 kilometres (110 mi) north of mainland Scotland, covers an area of 1,468 square kilometres (567 sq mi) and has a coastline 2,702 kilometres (1,679 mi) long. <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) 4</ref> Lerwick, the capital and largest settlement, has a population of 6,958 and about half of the archipelago's total population of 23,167 people live within 16 kilometres (10 mi) of the town. <ref>Visit Shetland". Visit.Shetland.org Retrieved 25 December 2010</ref> Scalloway on the west coast, which was the capital until 1708, has a population of less than 1,000. <ref> Shetland Islands Council (2010) 10</ref>

Only 16 of about 100 islands are inhabited. The main island of the group is known as the Mainland and of the next largest, Yell, Unst, and Fetlar lie to the north and Bressay and Whalsay lie to the east. East and West Burra, Muckle Roe, Papa Stour, Trondra and Vaila are smaller islands to the west of Mainland. The other inhabited islands are Foula 28 kilometres (17 mi) west of Walls, Fair Isle 38 kilometres (24 mi) south-west of Sumburgh Head, and the Out Skerries to the east.

The uninhabited islands include Mousa, known for the Broch of Mousa, the finest preserved example in Scotland of these Iron Age round towers, St Ninian's Isle connected to Mainland by the largest active tombolo in the UK, and Out Stack, the northernmost point of the British Isles. <ref>Fojut, Noel (1981) "Is Mousa a broch?" Proc. Soc. Antiq. Scot. 111 220-228</ref>

Shetland showing surrounding lands

Shetland's location means that it provides a number of such records: Muness is the most northerly castle in the United Kingdom and Skaw the most northerly settlement. <ref>"Skaw (Unst)" Shetlopedia. Retrieved 13 March 2011</ref>

The geology of Shetland is complex, with numerous faults and fold axes. These islands are the northern outpost of the Caledonian orogeny and there are outcrops of Lewisian, Dalriadan and Moine metamorphic rocks with similar histories to their equivalents on the Scottish mainland. Similarly, there are also Old Red Sandstone deposits and granite intrusions. The most distinctive features are the ultrabasic ophiolite, peridotite and gabbro on Unst and Fetlar, which are remnants of the Iapetus Ocean floor.<ref>Gillen, 90-91</ref>

Much of Shetland's economy depends on the oil-bearing sediments in the surrounding seas. <ref> Keay & Keay (1994) 867</ref>

Geological evidence shows that in around 6100 BC a tsunami caused by the Storegga Slides hit Shetland, as well as the rest of the east coast of Scotland, and may have created a wave of up to 25 metres (82 ft) high in the voes where modern populations are highest. <ref>Smith, David "Tsunami hazards". Fettes.com. Retrieved 7 March 2011</ref> The highest point of Shetland is Ronas Hill, which only reaches 450 metres (1,480 ft) and the Pleistocene glaciations entirely covered the islands. The Stanes of Stofast is a 2000 tonne glacial erratic that came to rest on a prominent hilltop in Lunnasting during this period.<ref>Schei (2006)103-04</ref>

Shetland is a National Scenic Area, although unusually this single designated area is made up of a number of discrete locations: Fair Isle, Foula, South West Mainland (including the Scalloway Islands), Muckle Roe, Esha Ness, Fethaland and Herma Ness. <ref>National Scenic Areas". SNH. Retrieved 30 March 2011</ref>

Climate

Shetland has an oceanic sub-polar climate, with long but mild winters and short, cool summers. The climate all year round is moderate due to the influence of the surrounding seas, with average peak temperatures of 5 °C (41 °F) in March and 14 °C (57 °F) in July and August. <ref>Shetland, Scotland Climate" climatetemp.info Retrieved 26 November 2010</ref>

Temperatures over 21 °C (70 °F) are very rare. The highest temperature on record was 23.4 °C (74.1 °F) in July 1991 and the coldest −8.9 °C (16.0 °F) in the Januarys of 1952 and 1959. <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2005) 5-9</ref> The frost-free period may be as little as 3 months. <ref>Northern Scotland: climate". Met office. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref>

The general character of the climate is windy and cloudy with at least 2 mm (0.079 in) of rain falling on more than 250 days a year. Average yearly precipitation is 1,003 mm (39.5 in), with November and December the wettest months. Snowfall is usually confined to the period November to February, and snow seldom lies on the ground for more than a day. Less rain falls from April to August although no month receives less than 50 mm (2.0 in). Fog is common during summer due to the cooling effect of the sea on mild southerly airflows. <ref>Shetland, Scotland Climate" climatetemp.info Retrieved 26 November 2010</ref> <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2005) 5-9</ref>

Due to the islands' latitude, on clear winter nights the "northern lights" can sometimes be seen in the sky, while in summer there is almost perpetual daylight, a state of affairs known locally as the "simmer dim".<ref>"The Climate of Shetland". Visit Shetland. Retrieved 11 May 2012</ref> Annual bright sunshine averages 1090 hours and overcast days are common. <ref>Shetland, Scotland Climate" climatetemp.info Retrieved 26 November 2010</ref>

Prehistory

Due to the practice, dating to at least the early Neolithic, of building in stone on virtually treeless islands, Shetland is extremely rich in physical remains of the prehistoric eras and there are over 5,000 archaeological sites in total. <ref>Val Turner (1998) Ancient Shetland. London. B. T. Batsford/Historic Scotland, 18</ref>A midden site at West Voe on the south coast of Mainland, dated to 4320–4030 BC, has provided the first evidence of Mesolithic human activity on Shetland. <ref>Melton, Nigel D. "West Voe: A Mesolithic-Neolithic Transition Site in Shetland" in Noble et al, 23, 33</ref>

The preserved ruins of a wheelhouse and broch at Jarlshof, described as "one of the most remarkable archaeological sites ever excavated in the British Isles"

The same site provides dates for early Neolithic activity and finds at Scord of Brouster in Walls have been dated to 3400 BC."Shetland knives" are stone tools that date from this period made from felsite from Northmavine. <ref>Schei, Liv Kjørsvik (2006) The Shetland Isles, 10</ref> Pottery shards found at the important site of Jarlshof also indicate that there was Neolithic activity there although the main settlement dates from the Bronze Age. <ref>Nicolson, James R. (1972) Shetland, 33-35</ref>

This includes a smithy, a cluster of wheelhouses and a later broch. The site has provided evidence of habitation during various phases right up until Viking times.[31][38] Heel-shaped cairns, are a style of chambered cairn unique to Shetland, with a particularly large example on Vementry.[36]

Numerous brochs were erected during the Iron Age. In addition to Mousa there are significant ruins at Clickimin, Culswick, Old Scatness and West Burrafirth, although their origin and purpose is a matter of some controversy. <ref>Armit, I. (2003) Towers in the North: The Brochs of Scotland, 24-26</ref>

The later Iron Age inhabitants of the Northern Isles were probably Pictish, although the historical record is sparse. Hunter (2000) states in relation to King Bridei I of the Picts in the sixth century AD: "As for Shetland, Orkney, Skye and the Western Isles, their inhabitants, most of whom appear to have been Pictish in culture and speech at this time, are likely to have regarded Bridei as a fairly distant presence.”<ref>Hunter, James (2000) Last of the Free: A History of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, 44-49</ref>

In 2011, the collective site, "The Crucible of Iron Age Shetland" including Broch of Mousa, Old Scatness and Jarlshof joined the UKs "Tentative List" of World Heritage Sites.<ref> "From Chatham to Chester and Lincoln to the Lake District - 38 UK places put themselves forward for World Heritage status" (7 July 2010) Department for Culture, Media and Sport. Retrieved 7 March 2011</ref> <ref> "Sites make Unesco world heritage status bid shortlist" (22 March 2011) BBC Scotland. Retrieved 22 March 2011</ref>

Middle Ages

The expanding population of Scandinavia led to a shortage of available resources and arable land there and led to a period of Viking expansion, the Norse gradually shifting their attention from plundering to invasion. Shetland was colonised during the late 8th and 9th centuries, the fate of the existing indigenous population being uncertain. Modern Shetlanders have almost identical proportions of Scandinavian matrilineal and patrilineal ancestry, suggesting that the islands were settled by both men and women in equal measure.<ref>Goodacre, S. et al (2005) "Genetic evidence for a family-based Scandinavian settlement of Shetland and Orkney during the Viking periods" Heredity 95, pp. 129–135. Nature.com. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

Vikings then made the islands the headquarters of pirate expeditions carried out against Norway and the coasts of mainland Scotland. In response, Norwegian king Harald Hårfagre ("Harald Fair Hair") annexed the Northern Isles (comprising Orkney and Shetland) in 875. Rognvald Eysteinsson received Orkney and Shetland from Harald as an earldom as reparation for the death of his son in battle in Scotland, and then passed the earldom on to his brother Sigurd the Mighty.<ref>Thomson, William P. L. (2008) The New History of Orkney, 24-27</ref>

James III and Margaret, whose betrothal led to Shetland passing from Norway to Scotland

The islands were Christianised in the late 10th century. King Olav Tryggvasson summoned the jarl Sigurd the Stout during a visit to Orkney and said, "I order you and all your subjects to be baptised. If you refuse, I'll have you killed on the spot and I swear I will ravage every island with fire and steel." Unsurprisingly, Sigurd agreed and the islands became Christian at a stroke. <ref>Thomson (2008) p. 69 quoting the Orkneyinga Saga, chapter 12</ref> Unusually, from c. 1100 onwards the Norse jarls owed allegiance both to Norway and to the Scottish crown through their holdings as Earls of Caithness. <ref>Crawford, Barbara E. "Orkney in the Middle Ages" in Omand (2003) 64</ref>

In 1194, when Harald Maddadsson was Earl of Orkney and Shetland, a rebellion broke out against King Sverre Sigurdsson of Norway. The Øyskjeggs ("Island Beardies") sailed for Norway but were beaten in the Battle of Florvåg near Bergen. After his victory King Sverre placed Shetland under direct Norwegian rule, a state of affairs that continued for nearly two centuries. <ref>Nicolson (1972) 43</ref>

From the mid 13th century onwards Scottish monarchs increasingly sought to take control of the islands surrounding the mainland. The process was begun in earnest by Alexander II and was continued by his successor Alexander III. This strategy eventually led to an invasion by Haakon Haakonsson, King of Norway. His fleet assembled in Bressay Sound before sailing for Scotland.

After the stalemate of the Battle of Largs, Haakon retreated to Orkney, where he died in December 1263, entertained on his death bed by recitations of the sagas. His death halted any further Norwegian expansion in Scotland and following this ill-fated expedition, the Hebrides and Mann were yielded to the Kingdom of Scotland as a result of the 1266 Treaty of Perth, although the Scots recognised continuing Norwegian sovereignty over Orkney and Shetland. <ref>Hunter (2000) 106-111</ref> <ref>"Agreement between Magnus IV and Alexander III, 1266" Manx Society IV,VII & IX. isleofman.com. Retrieved 23 March 2011</ref>

In the 14th century, Orkney and Shetland remained a Norwegian province, but Scottish influence was growing. Jon Haraldsson who was murdered in Thurso in 1231, was the last of an unbroken line of Norse jarls, and thereafter the earls were Scots noblemen of the houses of Angus and St. Clair. <ref>Thomson (2008) 24-27</ref>On the death of Haakon VI in 1380.

Norway formed a political union with Denmark after which the interest of the royal house in the islands declined. <ref>Schei (2006) 13</ref> In 1469, Shetland was pledged by Christian I, in his capacity as King of Norway, as security against the payment of the dowry of his daughter Margaret, betrothed to James III of Scotland. As the money was never paid, the connection with the crown of Scotland has become perpetual. In 1470, William Sinclair, 1st Earl of Caithness ceded his title to James III and the following year the Northern Isles were directly annexed to the Crown of Scotland, a process confirmed by Parliament in 1472.<ref>Nicolson (1972) p. 45, Thomson (2008) 204</ref> Nonetheless, Shetland's connection with Norway has proven to be enduring.

Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries: Early British rule

The trade with the North German towns lasted until the 1707 Act of Union when high salt duties prohibited the German merchants from trading with Shetland. Shetland then went into an economic depression as the Scottish and local traders were not as skilled in trading with salted fish. However, some local merchant-lairds took up where the German merchants had left off, and fitted out their own ships to export fish from Shetland to the Continent. For the independent farmers of Shetland this had negative consequences, as they now had to fish for these merchant-lairds. <ref>History". visit.shetland.org. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

Smallpox afflicted the islands in the 17th and 18th centuries, but as vaccines became common after 1760 the population increased to a maximum of 31,670 in 1861. However, British rule came at price for many ordinary people as well as traders. The Shetlanders nautical skills were sought by the Royal Navy. Some 3,000 served during the Napoleonic wars from 1800 to 1815 and press gangs were rife. During this period 120 men were taken from Fetlar alone and only 20 of them returned home. By the late 19th century 90% of all Shetland was owned by just 32 people, and between 1861 and 1881 more than 8,000 Shetlanders emigrated. <ref>Ursula Smith, Shetlopedia. Retrieved 12 October 2008, Schei (2006)16-17, 57</ref>

With the passing of the Crofters' Act in 1886 the Liberal prime minister William Gladstone emancipated crofters from the rule of the landlords. The Act enabled those who had effectively been landowners' serfs to become owner-occupiers of their own small farms. <ref> A History of Shetland, Visit.Shetland.org. Retrieved 16 January 2013</ref>By this time fishermen from Holland, who had traditionally gathered each year off the coast of Shetland to fish for herring, triggered an industry in the islands that boomed from around 1880 until the 1920s when stocks of the fish began to dwindle.

Twentieth Century

The 'Shetland Bus'

During World War I many Shetlanders served in the Gordon Highlanders, a further 3,000 served in the Merchant Navy and more than 1500 in a special local naval reserve. The 10th Cruiser Squadron was stationed at Swarbacks Minn and during a single year from March 1917 more than 4,500 ships sailed from Lerwick as part of an escorted convey system. In total, Shetland lost more than 500 men, a higher proportion than any other part of Britain, and there were further waves of emigration in the 1920s and 1930s.<ref>Schei (2006) 16-17, 57</ref><ref>A History of Shetland" Visit.Shetland.org. Retrieved 16 January 2013</ref>

During World War II a Norwegian naval unit nicknamed the "Shetland Bus" was established by the Special Operations Executive in the autumn of 1940 with a base first at Lunna and later in Scalloway to conduct operations around the coast of Norway. About 30 fishing vessels used by Norwegian refugees were gathered and the Shetland Bus conducted covert operations, carrying intelligence agents, refugees, instructors for the resistance, and military supplies. It made over 200 trips across the sea with Leif Larsen, the most highly decorated allied naval officer of the war, making 52 of them. <ref>A History of Shetland" Visit.Shetland.org. Retrieved 16 January 2013</ref> Several RAF bases were also established at Sullom Voe and several lighthouses suffered enemy air attacks. <ref>Nicolson (1972) 91, 94-95</ref> Oil reserves discovered in the later 20th century in the seas both east and west of Shetland have provided a much needed alternative source of income for the islands. The East Shetland Basin is one of Europe's largest oil fields and as a result of the oil revenue and the cultural links with Norway, a small independence movement developed briefly. It saw as its model the Isle of Man, as well as Shetland's closest neighbour, the Faroe Islands, an autonomous dependency of Denmark. <ref>Tallack, Malachy (2 April 2007) Fair Isle: Independence thinking</ref>

Economy

Today, the main revenue producers in Shetland are agriculture, aquaculture, fishing, renewable energy, the petroleum industry (crude oil and natural gas production), the creative industries and tourism. <ref> "Economy". move.shetland.org Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref> Fishing remains central to the islands' economy today, with the total catch being 75,767 tonnes (74,570 long tons; 83,519 short tons) in 2009, valued at over £73.2 million.

Apache Corporation's Beryl alpha oil platform in the East Shetland Basin

Mackerel makes up more than half of the catch in Shetland by weight and value, and there are significant landings of Haddock, Cod, Herring, Whiting, Monkfish and shellfish. <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) 16-17</ref> Farming is mostly concerned with the raising of Shetland sheep, known for their unusually fine wool. <ref>Home" Shetland Sheep Society. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref> Crops raised include oats and barley; however, the cold, windswept islands make for a harsh environment for most plants. Crofting, the farming of small plots of land on a legally restricted tenancy basis, is still practiced and viewed as a key Shetland tradition as well as important source of income. <ref>Crofting FAQS Scottish Crofting Federation. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref>

Oil and gas was first landed at Sullom Voe in 1978, and it has subsequently become one of the largest terminals in Europe. <ref>Asset Portfolio: Sullom Voe Termonal" (pdf) BP. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref>Taxes from the oil have increased public sector spending on social welfare, art, sport, environmental measures and financial development. Three quarters of the islands' workforce is employed in the service sector, and Shetland Islands Council alone accounted for 27.9% of output in 2003. <ref> "Shetland's Economy". Visit.Shetland.org. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref><ref> "Public Sector". move.shetland.org. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref>

Shetland's access to oil revenues has funded the Shetland Charitable Trust which in turn funds a wide variety of local programmes. The balance of the fund in 2011 was £217million i.e., about £9,500 per head. <ref>Financial Statements 31 March 2011." Shetland Charitable Trust. Retrieved 8 October 2011</ref>

In January 2007, the Shetland Islands Council signed a partnership agreement with Scottish and Southern Energy for the Viking Wind Farm, a 200-turbine wind farm and subsea cable. This renewable energy project would produce about 600 megawatts and contribute about £20 million to the Shetland economy per year.<ref>"Powering on with island wind plan" (19 January 2007). BBC News. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref> The plan is meeting significant opposition within the islands, primarily resulting from the anticipated visual impact of the development.<ref> "Shetlands storm over giant wind farm" (9 March 2008). London. The Observer. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref> The PURE project on Unst is a research centre which uses a combination of wind power and fuel cells to create a wind hydrogen system. The project is run by the Unst Partnership, the local community's development trust.<ref>"PURE Energy Centre". Pure Energy Centre. Retrieved 4 April 2012</ref>

Knitwear is important both to the economy and culture of Shetland and the Fair Isle design is well-known. However, the industry faces challenges due to plagiarism of the word "Shetland" by manufacturers operating elsewhere and a certification trademark, "The Shetland Lady", has been registered. <ref> Shetland Islands Council (2005) 25</ref> Shetland is served by a weekly local newspaper, The Shetland Times and the online Shetland News with radio service being provided by BBC Radio Shetland and the commercial radio station SIBC.<ref> Shetland News. shetland-news.co.uk. Retrieved 17 March 2011</ref>

Shetland is a popular destination for cruise ships and in 2010 the Lonely Planet guide named Shetland as the sixth best region in the world for tourists seeking unspoilt destinations. The islands were described as “beautiful and rewarding" and the Shetlanders as "a fiercely independent and self-reliant bunch". <ref> Hough, Andrew (2 November 2010) "Shetland Islands among best places to visit, says Lonely Planet guide". London. The Telegraph. Retrieved 7 April 2011</ref>Overall visitor expenditure was worth £16.4 million in 2006, in which year just under 26,000 cruise liner passengers arrived at Lerwick Harbour. In 2009, the most popular visitor attractions were the Shetland Museum, the RSPB reserve at Sumburgh Head, Bonhoga Gallery at Weisdale Mill and Jarlshof. <ref> Shetland Islands Council (2010) 26</ref>

Transport

Transport between islands is primarily by ferry, and Shetland Islands Council operates various inter-island services. <ref>"Ferries". Shetland.gov.uk. Retrieved 23 May 2011</ref> Shetland is also served by a domestic connection from Lerwick to Aberdeen on mainland Scotland. This service, which takes about 12 hours, is operated by NorthLink Ferries. Some services also call at Kirkwall, Orkney, which increases the journey time between Aberdeen and Lerwick by 2 hours.<ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) 32, 35</ref> <ref> "2011 Timetables" NorthLink Ferries. Retrieved 7 April 2011</ref>

Sumburgh Airport, the main airport on Shetland, is located close to Sumburgh Head, 40 km (25 mi) south of Lerwick. Loganair operates flights for FlyBe to other parts of Scotland up to ten times a day, the destinations being Kirkwall, Aberdeen, Inverness, Glasgow and Edinburgh. <ref>Sumburgh Airport" Highlands and Islands Airports. Retrieved 16 March 2011</ref> Lerwick/Tingwall Airport is located 11 km (6.8 mi) west of Lerwick. Operated by Directflight Ltd. in partnership with Shetland Islands Council, it is devoted to inter-island flights from the Shetland Mainland to most of the inhabited islands. <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) 32</ref> <ref>Shetland Inter-Island Scheduled Service" directflight.co.uk. Retrieved 11 May 2012</ref>

Community Councils

The Shetland Islands Council is the Local Government authority for all the islands, based in Lerwick Town Hall.

Shetland is sub-divided into 18 community council areas and into 12 civil parishes that are used for statistical purposes. <ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) pp. 51, 54, 56</ref> <ref>Map of Parishes in the Islands of Orkney and Shetland". Scotlands family.com Retrieved 19 July 2013</ref>

  • Bressay
  • Delting
  • Dunrossness
  • Fetlar
  • Lerwick
  • Nesting
  • Northma

Education

In Shetland there are two High Schools—Anderson and Brae—seven Junior High Schools, and over thirty primary schools.<ref>Shetland Islands Council (2010) 41-42</ref> Shetland is also home to the North Atlantic Fisheries College, the Centre for Nordic Studies and Shetland College, which are all associated with the University of the Highlands and Islands. <ref>"NAFC Marine Centre" North Atlantic Fisheries College. Retrieved 17 March 2011</ref> <ref> "Welcome! " Centre for Nordic Studies. Retrieved 17 March 2011</ref>

Sport

The islands are represented by the Shetland football team. The islands are not a member of FIFA or UEFA and therefore are not eligible to play in the World Cup or the European Championships, however they do regularly compete in the Island Games.

The island's main football club is Lerwick Spurs F.C. who compete in the G&S Premier League. They play at Gilbertson Park in the capital, Lerwick.

Religion

The Reformation reached the archipelago in 1560. This was an apparently peaceful transition and there is little evidence of religious intolerance in Shetland's recorded history. <ref>Schei (2006) 14</ref> A variety of different religious denominations are represented in the islands.

The Methodist Church has a relatively high membership in Shetland, which is a District of the Methodist Church (with the rest of Scotland comprising a separate District). <ref>Area 3 Districts". methodist.org.uk. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>The Church of Scotland has a Presbytery of Shetland that includes St. Columba's Church in Lerwick. <ref> "Lerwick and Bressay Parish Church Profile". (pdf) shetland-communities.org.uk. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

The Scottish Episcopal Church (part of the Anglican Communion) has regular worship at St Magnus' Church, Lerwick, St Colman's Church, Burravoe, and the Chapel of Christ the Encompasser, Fetlar, the last of which is maintained by the Society of Our Lady of the Isles, the most northerly and remote Anglican religious order of nuns.

Politics

Lerwick

Shetland is represented in the House of Commons as part of the Orkney and Shetland constituency, which elects one Member of Parliament, the current incumbent being Alistair Carmichael. This seat has been held by the Liberal Democrats or their predecessors the Liberal Party since 1950, longer than any other they represent in the UK.<ref> "Alistair Carmichael: MP for Orkney and Shetland" alistaircarmichael.org.uk. Retrieved 8 September 2009</ref><ref>Candidates and Constituency Assessments". alba.org.uk - "The almanac of Scottish elections and politics". Retrieved 9 February 2010</ref><ref>"The Untouchable Orkney & Shetland Isles " (1 October 2009) www.snptacticalvoting.com Retrieved 9 February 2010</ref>

In the Scottish Parliament the Shetland constituency elects one Member of the Scottish Parliament (MSP) by the first past the post system. The current MSP is Tavish Scott of the Scottish Liberal Democrats. Shetland is within the Highlands and Islands electoral region.<ref>"Tavish Scott MSP" Scottish Parliament. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

The political composition of the Council is 22 Independents. Thus it is one of only three Councils in Scotland with a majority of elected members not representing a political party.

Roy Grönneberg, who founded the local chapter of the Scottish National Party in 1966, designed the flag of Shetland in cooperation with Bill Adams to mark the 500th anniversary of the transfer of the islands from Norway to Scotland. The colours are identical to those of the Flag of Scotland, but are shaped in the Nordic cross. After several unsuccessful attempts, including a plebiscite in 1985, the Lyon King of Arms approved it as the official flag of Shetland in 2005. <ref> "Flag of Shetland". Flags of the World. Retrieved 19 March 2011</ref>

Culture and Arts

Procession at Up Helly Aa

After the islands were transferred to Scotland, thousands of Scots families emigrated to Shetland in the 16th and 17th centuries but studies of the genetic makeup of the islands' population indicate that Shetlanders are just under half Scandinavian in origin. <ref>Goodacre, S. et al (2005) "Genetic evidence for a family-based Scandinavian settlement of Shetland and Orkney during the Viking periods" Heredity 95, pp. 129–135. Nature.com. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

This combination is reflected in many aspects of local life. For example, almost every place name in use can be traced back to the Vikings.<ref>Julian Richards, Vikingblod, page 236, Hermon Forlag</ref>The Norn language was a form of Old Norse, which continued to be spoken until the 18th century when it was replaced by an insular dialect of Scots known as Shetlandic, which is in turn is being replaced by Scottish English. Although Norn was spoken for hundreds of years it is now extinct and few written sources remain. <ref>Velkomen!" nornlanguage.com. Retrieved 8 March 2011</ref>

Shetlandic is used both in local radio and dialect writing, and kept alive by the Shetland Folk Society.<ref>Culture and Music". Visit.Shetland.org. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

The Lerwick Up Helly Aa is one of a variety of fire festivals held in Shetland annually in the middle of winter, it is always started on the last Tuesday of January. <ref>Welcome to Up Helly Aa". Uphellyaa.org. Retrieved 8 December 2013</ref> The festival is just over 100 years old in its present, highly organised form. Originally, a festival held to break up the long nights of winter and mark the end of Yule, the festival has become one celebrating the isles' heritage and includes a procession of men dressed as Vikings and the burning of a replica longship.<ref>Up Helly Aa" Visit.Shetland.org. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

The cuisine of Shetland is based on locally produced lamb, beef and seafood, much of it organic. Inevitably, the real ale-producing Valhalla Brewery is the most northerly in Britain. The Shetland Black is a variety of blue potato with a dark skin and indigo coloured flesh markings. <ref>"Food and drink" Visit Shetland. Retrieved 11 May 2012</ref>

Shetland competes in the biennial International Island Games, which it hosted in 2005.<ref>Member Profile: Shetland Islands". International Island Games Association. Retrieved 20 March 2011</ref>

Music

Shetland's culture and landscapes have inspired a variety of musicians, writers and film-makers. The Forty Fiddlers was formed in the 1950s to promote the traditional fiddle style, which is a vibrant part of local culture today.<ref>"The Forty Fiddlers" Shetlopedia. Retrieved 8 March 2011</ref> Notable exponents of Shetland folk music include Aly Bain, Fiddlers' Bid, and the late Tom Anderson and Peerie Willie Johnson. Thomas Fraser was a country musician who never released a commercial recording during his life, but whose work has become popular more than 20 years after his untimely death in 1978. <ref>Culshaw, Peter (18 June 2006) " The Tale of Thomas Fraser" guardian.co.uk. Retrieved 8 March 2011</ref>

Literature

Hugh Macdiarmid

Walter Scott's 1822 novel The Pirate is set in "a remote part of Shetland", and was inspired by his 1814 visit to the islands. The name Jarlshof meaning "Earl's Mansion" is a coinage of his. <ref>Jarlshof" Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 2 August 2008</ref>

Hugh MacDiarmid, the Scots poet and writer lived in Whalsay from the mid-1930s through 1942, and wrote many poems there, including a number that directly address or reflect the Shetland environment such as "On A Raised Beach", which was inspired by a visit to West Linga.<ref>Hugh MacDiarmid" Shetlopedia. Retrieved 8 March 2011</ref>

The 1975 novel North Star by Hammond Innes is largely set in Shetland and Raman Mundair's 2007 book of poetry A Choreographer's Cartography offers a British Asian perspective on the landscape. <ref>Morgan, Gavin (19 April 2008) "Shetland author wins acclaim". Shetland News. Retrieved 26 March 2011</ref> The Shetland Quartet by Ann Cleeves, who previously lived in Fair Isle, is a series of crime novels set around the islands.<ref>Shetland". Ann Cleeves.com. Retrieved 8 December 2013</ref>

In 2013 her novel Red Bones became the basis of BBC crime drama television series Shetland.<ref>Shetland". BBC. Retrieved 8 December 2013</ref>Vagaland, who grew up in Walls, was arguably Shetland's finest poet of the 20th century.<ref>"Vagaland" Shetlopedia. Retrieved 8 March 2011</ref>

Haldane Burgess was a Shetland historian, poet, novelist, violinist, linguist and socialist and Rhoda Bulter (1929 – 1994) is one of the best-known Shetland poets of recent times. Other 20th and 21st century poets and novelists include Christine De Luca, Robert Alan Jamieson who grew up in Sandness, the late Lollie Graham of Veensgarth, Stella Sutherland of Bressay, the late William J Tait from Yell and Laureen Johnson.<ref>"Shetland Writing and Writers: Stella Sutherland". Shetland Islands Council. Retrieved 6 January 2014</ref> <ref>William J. (Billy) Tait". Shetland For Wirds. Retrieved 6 January 2014</ref><ref>"Shetland Writing and Writers: Laureen Johnson". Shetland Islands Council. Retrieved 6 January 2014</ref> There are two magazines in print, Shetland Life and i' i' Shetland. <ref>Shetland Life" Shetlopedia. Retrieved 17 March 2012</ref>

The quarterly The New Shetlander, founded in 1947, is said to be Scotland's longest-running literary magazine.<ref>The New Shetlander". Voluntary Action Shetland. Retrieved 8 December 2013</ref>For much of the later 20th century it was the major vehicle for the work of local writers - and others, including early work by George Mackay Brown. <ref>Life and Work: Part 3". George Mackay Brown website. Retrieved 8 December 2013</ref>

On Film

Michael Powell made The Edge of the World in 1937, a dramatisation based on the true story of the evacuation of the last 36 inhabitants of the remote island of St Kilda on 29 August 1930. St Kilda lies in the Atlantic Ocean, 64 kilometres (40 mi) west of the Outer Hebrides but Powell was unable to get permission to film there. Undaunted, he made the film over four months during the summer of 1936 on Foula and the film transposes these events to Shetland. Forty years later, the documentary Return To The Edge Of The World was filmed, capturing a reunion of cast and crew of the film as they revisited the island in 1978. <ref> "A Crofter's Life in Shetland" screenonline.org.uk. Retrieved 12 October 2008</ref>

A number of other films have been made on or about Shetland including A Crofter's Life in Shetland (1932). <ref>Shetland". BBC. Retrieved 8 December 2012</ref> A Shetland Lyric (1934), Devil's Gate (2003) and It's Nice Up North (2006), a comedy documentary by Graham Fellows.<ref>The Rugged Island: A Shetland Lyric" IMDb. Retrieved 12 October 2008</ref> An annual film festival takes place in the newly built Mareel, a cinema, music and education venue. <ref>http://www.shetlandarts.org/whats-on/festivals/screenplay</ref>

Plants and Animals

Shetland Mouse-ear (Cerastium nigrescens), on the Keen of Hamar reserve, Unst

Shetland has three National Nature Reserves, at the seabird colonies of Hermaness and Noss, and at Keen of Hamar to preserve the serpentine flora. There are a further 81 SSSIs, which cover 66% or more of the land surfaces of Fair Isle, Papa Stour, Fetlar, Noss and Foula. Mainland has 45 separate sites. <ref> Shetland Islands Council (2010) 52</ref> The landscape in Shetland is marked by the grazing of sheep and the harsh conditions have limited the total number of plant species to about 400.

Native trees such as Rowan and Crab Apple are only found in a few isolated places such as cliffs and loch islands. The flora is dominated by Arctic-alpine plants, wild flowers, moss and lichen. Spring Squill, Buck's-Horn Plantain, Scots Lovage, Roseroot and Sea Campion are abundant, especially in sheltered places. Shetland Mouse-ear (Cerastium nigrescens) is an endemic flowering plant found only in Shetland. It was first recorded in 1837 by botanist Thomas Edmondston. Although reported from two other sites in the 19th century, it currently grows only on two serpentine hills on the island of Unst. The nationally scarce Oysterplant is found on several islands and the British Red Listed bryophyte Thamnobryum alopecurum has also been recorded. <ref>Scott, W. & Palmer, R. (1987) The Flowering Plants and Ferns of the Shetland Islands. Shetland Times. Lerwick</ref><ref>Scott, W. Harvey, P., Riddington, R. & Fisher, M. (2002) Rare Plants of Shetland. Shetland Amenity Trust. Lerwick</ref><ref>Flora" visit.shetland.org. Retrieved 7 April 2011</ref>

Shetland has numerous seabird colonies. Birds found on the islands include Atlantic Puffin, Storm-petrel, Red-throated Diver, Northern Gannet and Bonxie. <ref>SNH (2008) 16</ref> Numerous rarities have also been recorded including Black-browed Albatross and Snow Goose, and a single pair of Snowy Owls bred on Fetlar from 1967 to 1975.<ref> "Home". Nature in Shetland. Retrieved 12 March 2011</ref> The Shetland Wren, Fair Isle Wren and Shetland Starling are subspecies endemic to Shetland.<ref>Williamson, Kenneth (1951) "The wrens of Fair Isle". Ibis 93(4): pp. 599-601. Retrieved 12 March 2011</ref> There are also populations of various moorland birds such as Curlew, Snipe and Golden Plover.<ref>SNH (2008) 10</ref>


References

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